Shingles Information Sheet

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   How many nails are necessary per shingle sheet when installing a roof?
   We are having a new roof installed and have received 3 quotes. One roofer says they use 4 nails per shingle sheet and the other says 6. Is there any rationale for the guy who only uses 4? Is there any risk of only using 4? I appreciate your responses in advance.

   • ANSWER:
     Standard installations require 4 nails per shingle. Very steep slopes (Mansard) and high wind areas require 6 nails. The rational for only using 4 nails is that is all it takes to do a quality job in most cases. The most critical thing to worry about is proper nail placement. 4 nails in the right place are far better than 6 in the wrong. Many roofers in a hurry to complete the job nail above the nail line. This will void any warranty and make the roof more prone to wind damage. All of this is clearly written on the bundle wrapper of the shingles. Having said that I am not against using 6 nails I just wouldnt pay a whole lot more to get it if I didnt need it. Here is a link to the National Roofing Contractors Association that gives a lot of good information including some more questions you should be asking these roofers. http://www.nrca.net/consumer/default.aspx

2. QUESTION:
   Anyone have info on how to safely remove a tree limb that is on the roof of my house?
   It was due to ice, a 14 inch diameter limb with many attached branches fell onto the roof of the house. It may have well as been a whole tree due to the size of it.

   There was no damage to the trusses, but two thick branches are protruding through the bottom of the roof into the garage.

   One end of the limb is still partially attached to the tree but is not stable, the other end is resting through several large branches/limbs on the peak of the roof. Overall I would say the limb is about 30 ft long from where it’s broken out to the tips of the branches. It’s about 20 ft from where the limb attaches to the tree to where it sits on my roof.

   I am looking for a website or books or whatever with information on how to properly and safely remove a limb this big without sending it crashing through the roof, or smashing my deck.

   • ANSWER:
     well, go on up there with a chain saw and start cutting. start with the small stuff and throw it off the roof as you go. be carefull not to touch the blade to the shingles, or it will just about ruin the chain. take your time and think logicaly about it. stay away from anywhere the limb has broken through, or you may fall through. cut the larger end up into small pieces so it is safer to handle. you should definitly call a profetional to re-shingle the roof. tell them to check for any structual damage and to replace any plywood sheeting that has been damaged.

3. QUESTION:
   How much would a metal roof cost?
   My hubby and I are considering moving our roof from shingles to metal. Our roof is approximately 2030 sq feet, and there’s 2 layers of shingles.

   I know that’s not a lot of information, but I would mostly just like to see some cost numbers that people with the know-how on that would drop.

   • ANSWER:
     As it has been said by others, any answer you get here could be miles out. Knowing that I don’t believe you’re expecting a figure set in stone, but rather a ball park cost.

     Using this site as a guide, http://discountmetalroofing.com/special.pdf You’ll see that 36″ sheets of 26 gauge will cost approximately 85 cent a square foot.

     If that 2030 sq feet is the sq feet of the floor plan, you’d have to multiply that by 1.3 which = 2639 sq feet

     So I will give you 2 numbers, for 2030 sq feet just the roofing will cost 25.50c for 2639 sq feet the cost is 43.15c, plus the hip and ridge capping’s and any valleys you might have. Since we don’t know your roofs configuration (how many ridges, barge’s, hips or valleys you have)., we’ll just add 0 as a guesstimate.

     So far we have 43.15c or 25.50c
     Now we have installation cost @ per hr the 2030 sq feet will cost 20 odd and the 2639 sq feet will be 00 odd.

     Now removal cost, 2030 sq feet will run approximately 00 and the 2639 sq feet will run at approximately 00.

     The 2030 sq feet will be 25.50c (roofing material) + 0 (cappings) + 20 (installation) + 00 (removal) = 45.50c
     & the 2639 sq feet will be 43.15c Ball park figure.

4. QUESTION:
   How does ceiling insulation save money?
   It’s a question for a school sheet. I think I know the answer just making sure. Thanks in advance

   • ANSWER:
     Insulation works by preventing the transference of heat. Temperatures always move from higher to lower.
     In the summertime, the sun shining on the roof shingles make them very hot. Ceiling insulation will prevent that heat from being transferred to the cooler living area, keeping the house cool. That saves money because the air conditioner doesn’t need to work too hard.
     During the winter, it will prevent the heat from indoors from bring transferred to the outside, so that the heating system can work more efficiently.

     Here’s some more information about insulation and how it works.

5. QUESTION:
   How can i go about building a structure in my backyard?
   I live in Burlington County, NJ; i want to build a Decent sized building to have band practice in. I have an acre of land to work with but i only need a bit of space.

   What are the steps i need to take to construct this building LEGALLY.

   • ANSWER:
     You’ll need to gain access to the county’s zoning by-laws. No county has the same restrictions in regards to construction, so any advice should be taken with consideration to local restrictions.

     The most common restriction is how close a structure can be built in relation to property lines and other buildings. There may also be provisions in which neighbours can voice concerns regarding things like aesthetics or any nuisance the building might create. (Shouldn’t tell them it will be used for band practice — tell them it’s a storage shed)

     In the end, you’ll likely have to produce blueprints and architectural drawings (in most cases, for something like an outbuilding, a simply diagram will suffice) will need to be forwarded to the county’s planning board, who will either approve, disapprove or request more information. If approved, you’ll be issued a building permit.

     As for building the structure, it is fairly straight-forward. If your going to contract the work out, get quoted estimates from five different contractors. Eliminate the highest and lowest quotes, then interview the remaining three. Get references and an estimated time of completion for each contractor. Always choose the best contractor for the job, regardless of cost. A job done right the first time will save you money in the long run.

     However, if you have designs on building the structure yourself, I’ve listed the steps in which to follow.

     1 Build foundation and provide service accesses; water, electrical, sewer, phone and gas (if required).

     2 Frame structure; build sub-floor, exterior walls, interior wall and then roof.

     3 Shingle roof, install windows and doors, sheet or clad exterior.

     4 Plumbing, mechanical and electrical rough-ins; basically run electrical wires, heating runs and plumbing runs according to plans. Install furnace and hot water heaters.

     5 Insulate and apply vapour barrier.

     6 Drywall; start with ceilings, then walls — working from the top down. Mud and sand; mud and sand — until you have a nice smooth finish.

     7 Primer interior; apply texture to ceiling if desired. Sand (scratch) wall after texturing and each coat of primer — two coats should be sufficient.

     8. Paint walls.

     9. Install carpets and other flooring, followed by cabinetry, baseboards and trim. Tie in electrical outlets. Install plumbing fixtures and tie into rough plumbing services.

     10 General clean-up followed by house warming party.

     Calculating material is actually simple. Calculate the area to be covered and divide it by the dimensions of the material being used. Then multiply that number by 1.2 to account for waste.

     Framing for instance, basically involves calculating the perimeter of the structure and multiplying this number by four. A standard wall has three plate; top, bottom and cap (which goes above the top plate). The extra set of plates is for the lentils, sills and header plates associated with doors and windows.

     Divide that number by the length of the dimensional lumber you intend to use and that will give you the number of plates required. And if you estimate that you need one stud for every foot of plate, you’ll be well prepared to start building. Most buildings have studs spaces at 16 inches on centre. However corner sets and jack studs (windows and doors) will eat up the difference.

     For example, lets look at a 20′ X 6′ shed, not including the roof. Using standard studs, the building will be 8′ tall.

     Plate material.

     Perimeter = 2(length + width) = 2 (20 + 6) = 52 feet
     Total plate material = Perimeter x 4 = 52 x 4 = 208 feet of material.

     Dimensional lumber in a length of 16 ‘ will allow you to cut 6′ off the end, leaving you 10′ (which is half of 20′) . And it just so happens that 208 divided by 16 is exactly 13. So purchase 14 to 16 sixteen footers of whatever you intend to frame with.

     So your framing package would be 16 – 16′ers and 52 studs.

     As for siding material, the area is calculated as such:

     Area = 2(20 x 8) + 2(10 x 8) = 320 + 160 = 480 sq feet.
     A standard sheet of plywood is 4 X 8 feet = 32 sq feet

     Number of sheet required = ( 480 / 32 ) x 1.2 = 18 sheets.

     If you do the same for your project, you should have a better idea of the material required. Just remember that not every piece of lumber is going to be ideal. All estimates should take into consideration warped, cupped or bowed lumber. It is always better to over order a project, sort through the package when it arrives, toss the bad lumber to the side and use these for bracing, short studs (under windows), sills and plates for windows and doors, backing and other aspects which will allow you to cut in order to maximize your lumber package. And you’ll always find some use for the left over lumber. And many of these calculations can be transferred to interior walls, drywall, insulation, vapour barrier and finishing woodwork.

     I’m not certain about your local building codes — these can usually be found the reference section of your local library — but in Alberta, exterior walls must be constructed of 2 x 6s. Interior wall, with the exception of walls carrying plumbing (also 2 x 6), can be constructed of 2 x 4s. The reason for the thicker exterior walls is for insulation.

     I think that pretty well covers all the bases. Good luck and happy building.

6. QUESTION:
   How much wood to build a fort?
   I am building a fort that wil be 10 feet by 10 feet, and 8 feet high I want two of the sides to have screened-in walls I am not sure how to do the door yet . I need to figure out how much wood and screen and other things I will need, and also the approximent price(I live in Florida)

   • ANSWER:
     Well you would need about 400 square feet of screen, 100 square feet of floor material and 100 feet of roofing material. When figuring the wood in the walls, floor and roof, figure about one board for every foot.

     That equals about 60 boards to actually build the fort. You should use 2 x 4s for the walls, 2 x 6s for the roof and at lease 2 x 6s for the floor. You will need about four sheets of 3/4″ plywood or OSB for the floor and at least that much for your roof if it is not too steep. If you are making the roof waterproof you will also need a roll of roofing felt (paper) and a square and a half or so of shingles.

     Email me if you need more information.

7. QUESTION:
   how do i determine the quanity of ceder shingles needed.?
   A ranch house is to be covered with cedar shingles. The house has been determined that the sheathing requires 40 sheets for the walls. 4 sheets to cover the lower trimming and 7 sheets are needed for the gable ends. This means that the whole house requires 51 sheets. This house has two entry doors, a picture window, and nine average-size windows. Determine the quantity of cedar shingles needed for the siding.

   • ANSWER:
     You seem to have answered this question already, in your information given!! The “walls” would be where the “siding” goes, and they need 40 sheets – the others are just for the trim.

8. QUESTION:
   Anybody know anything about the History of Metal as a Roofing material?
   I’m doing a report, and cannot find much of anything online or in the library. If you know any good websites or books or articles that I can use, it would be much appreciated, especially if there are pictures. I just need to know some early uses of metal roofing.

   • ANSWER:
     Here is some good information on the U.S. History of Metal Roofing.
     Metal roofing in America is principally a 19th-century phenomenon. Before then the only metals commonly used were lead and copper. For example, a lead roof covered “Rosewell,” one of the grandest mansions in 18thcentury Virginia. But more often, lead was used for protective flashing. Lead, as well as copper, covered roof surfaces where wood, tile, or slate shingles were inappropriate because of the roof’s pitch or shape.

     Copper with standing seams covered some of the more notable early American roofs including that of Christ Church (17271744) in Philadelphia. Flat-seamed copper was used on many domes and cupolas. The copper sheets were imported from England until the end of the 18th century when facilities for rolling sheet metal were developed in America.

     Sheet iron was first known to have been manufactured here by the Revolutionary War financier, Robert Morris, who had a rolling mill near Trenton, New Jersey. At his mill Morris produced the roof of his own Philadelphia mansion, which he started in 1794. The architect Benjamin H. Latrobe used sheet iron to replace the roof on Princeton’s “Nassau Hall,” which had been gutted by fire in 1802.

     The method for corrugating iron was originally patented in England in 1829. Corrugating stiffened the sheets, and allowed greater span over a lighter framework, as well as reduced installation time and labor. In 1834 the American architect William Strickland proposed corrugated iron to cover his design for the market place in Philadelphia.

     Galvanizing with zinc to protect the base metal from rust was developed in France in 1837. By the 1850s the material was used on post offices and customhouses, as well as on train sheds and factories. In 1857 one of the first metal roofs in the South was installed on the U.S. Mint in New Orleans. The Mint was thereby ” fireproofed” with a 20gauge galvanized, corrugated iron roof on iron trusses.

     Tinplate iron, commonly called “tin roofing,” was used extensively in Canada in the 18th century, but it was not as common in the United States until later. Thomas Jefferson was an early advocate of tin roofing, and he installed a standingseam tin roof on “Monticello” (ca. 17701802). The Arch Street Meetinghouse (1804) in Philadelphia had tin shingles laid in a herringbone pattern on a “piazza” roof.

     However, once rolling mills were established in this country, the low cost, light weight, and low maintenance of tin plate made it the most common roofing material. Embossed tin shingles, whose surfaces created interesting patterns, were popular throughout the country in the late 19th century. Tin roofs were kept wellpainted, usually red; or, as the architect A. J. Davis suggested, in a color to imitate the green patina of copper.

     Terne plate differed from tin plate in that the iron was dipped in an alloy of lead and tin, giving it a duller finish. Historic, as well as modern, documentation often confuses the two, so much that it is difficult to determine how often actual “terne” was used.

     Zinc came into use in the 1820s, at the same time tin plate was becoming popular. Although a less expensive substitute for lead, its advantages were controversial, and it was never widely used in this country.

9. QUESTION:
   How was asbestos insulation installed?
   I’m trying to write a report about asbestos insulation and other then the fact that it causes cancer, I cannot find much, any information is greatly appreciated!

   • ANSWER:
     www.asbestos-compensation.com/uses-of-asbestos.html
     I found a decent article at the above web site. Its properties were, good insulation, good wearability, sound deadening, relatively strong and held things together, and more. I did several asbestos replacement projects for some large companies and it was also taught in a class that I had in college. People used to work it by hand to get the fiber out of it. They wore no protection. The old red curtains in movies houses were made of asbestos due to the sound deadening properties. If you look in old irons the is a sheet of asbestos in them to insulate. Some masks were made of asbestos because it was a good filter for particles that would be breathed in.
     It is in zonelite which is a particle mineral that was expanded and put in homes for attic insulation in the late 50′s. It was used in plaster to hold it together and in joint compound for wall board. Ceiling tiles and pipe insulation had asbestos in it along with the coatings that were put on to protect them and join them together. Floor tiles were had asbestos in them. Gaskets that sealed pipes and things together were made of asbestos. Brakes in cars, and they were often machined so the brakes fit better to the drums by unsuspecting garage workers. A product called marinite was used in hot molten metal applications, high temperature gloves and protective equipment for heat was made from asbestos for people that worked around heat and firemen. Protective blankets were made of it also to rescue people.
     Asbestos is a mineral and can be identified by putting it in a liquid with the same refraction number as the type of asbestos. There are quite a few types and some are much more aggressive in forming cancers than others. Some are more of a breathing disorder with decreased lung function like black lung or silicosis. It is known as asbestosis. The bad outcome is when you develop cancer or mesothelioma from asbestos and it usually associated with only a couple of the types of asbestos.
     One other thing I just remembered, we used to literally build our homes from it. Roof shingles and roofing tar had asbestos in them, the outside walls were made of a product called transite, the insulation contained it, the floor tiles, the plaster board and joint compound, and even the water pipe was made of transite. And then we replaced the pipe with copper piping that had lead solder to join the pipes. We also used lead in the paint especially white to make the paint brighter.
     Good luck with tour paper.
     www.mesorfa.org/exposure/asbestos-types.php go to this web site for the various types of asbestos. The blue one at the bottom is the bad guy.

10. QUESTION:
    how do i calculate the square footage of a hip roof?

    • ANSWER:
      Unfortuantely the pictures do not show up, but here is how the math works…

      The following drawing shows 3 views of a Hip Roof. TOP

      With the information above we find the information needed to make each of the following: Ridge, Normal Rafters, End Rafters, Hip Rafters, and Jack Rafters. ( see the following figure ) We also find the squares of shingles and # sheets of plywood to cover the roof.

11. QUESTION:
    My 5 year old has chicken pox?
    My 5 year old has chicken pox. I also have a 6 year old and a 3 year old. When do you think they will catch it?

    • ANSWER:
      The incubation period for chicken pox is usually 11-21 days with about 2 weeks being average. Your 5 year old was contagious even before the pox erupted so your other 2 have been exposed already. They may both come down at the same time with them, but maybe not. My oldest brought chicken pox home from kindergarten and actually got her first crop of pox on her 6th birthday. I also had a 3 year old and a 7 month old at the time. I figured they’d both come down with them around the same time, but oddly, the 3 year old got them about 2 weeks later, but the baby didn’t. I thought maybe she was too little to get them, but 2 weeks after our 3 year old got them, the baby got them. She had a horrible case with pox all over her body even in her ears, her mouth, between her toes, and the ones in her diaper area didn’t scab over for the longest time. Fortunately it was June when she had them, so we put a sheet in the porta-crib and put her in there stark naked so her diaper area would have a good chance to dry out. These 3 kids were little when there was no such thing as a vaccine for chicken pox. Our youngest is only 11 so she could have had the vaccine, but it was fairly new at the time and it seemed like 1/2 the people I knew with vaccinated kids were still coming down with the chicken pox. She hated the doctor and shots and we’d been through chicken pox before with no problems, so I talked with her doctor about not having the vaccine. My doctor was all for it. I think the vaccine has been improved as she didn’t come down with them until second grade and she was the only one in her school who had them at that time. ADDED: You’ve got a few answers with some mis-information in them. It is true that having chicken pox has an adult comes with increased risk of complications, but sterility is not one of those. It is possible that an adult who comes down with mumps may have sterility, but it is rare. Also, chicken pox in adults is not called Shingles. Shingles is a different illness, but it is caused when the dormat virus varicella zoster (the same virus that causes chicken pox, which is a herpes virus) is reactivated. Anyone who has had chicken pox can get Shingles.

12. QUESTION:
    What disease or allergy do I have?
    It’s been just abit more than a week that I’ve had all these red spots on my body – its really just centralised on my torso, and inner thighs. I went to the clinic last week and the doctor said i just had hives, though i’ve been taking medication for that since (Benaldryl) and its gotten progressively worse – abit redder, more spots, the older spots get bigger.

    There’s no liquids going out, there’s no blisters, though it itches alot. Could it be more than just hives? Doesnt hives just last a few day? On an information sheet that the doctor gave me, it said to contact him again if the ithcing didnt stop after a couple days, or if the rash lasts more than a week. Its been over a week and i still have watever it is and it still itches.

    So what do you think I have? I guess i dont have shingles since there’s no blisters, though could it be more than just hives? will it eventually go away or do I have to take a stronger medication?

    • ANSWER:
      Ask a doctor becaus I think that this is uncommon. But call the doctor before you visit

13. QUESTION:
    what is the medical term shingles?
    how is it treated

    • ANSWER:
      Here’s all the information you’re looking for: http://hcd2.bupa.co.uk/fact_sheets/html/shingles.html

14. QUESTION:
    Develop the standard costs from the information given. Morlee Corporation makes three models of storage sheds.?
    Develop the standard costs from the information given. Morlee Corporation makes three models of storage sheds. Model JB102 a 10′ by 12′ model that looks Victorian with windows, shutters and gingerbread along the roof line, is Morlee’s most popular model. Direct materials for the JB102 consists of $ 66.00 for 7 sheets of pressed board, .00 for 2 4′s for framing, .00 for roofing shingles, and .00 for aluminum siding. The nails, glue and other indirect materials for the company total ,880 per year and are applied based on direct labor hours. The total direct labor hours for Morlee for one year are estimated to be 8,000 per year. Direct labor for each JB 102 is estimated to be 7 hours. The average hourly rate at Morelee is .50. Prepare a standard cost card for Model JB102. Units and per unit amount for material can be omitted.

    HTML Editor

    • ANSWER:
      You can’t answer this question????

      You shouldn’t be doing accounting if you can’t answer this question you shouldn’t be duo g accounting

      Learn properly and do your own homework. Your tutor can help

15. QUESTION:
    I’m being monitored for AFib and had SVT ablation, is it ok for me to take elavil & tegretol for my PHN pain?
    I had a catheter heart ablation for SVT 2 months ago and while being monitored my heart kept going into atrial fibrillation (which my EP didn’t know I had a problem with). I’m currently wearing a heart monitor so they can determine if I officially have Afib and how to treat my recurring arrythmia issues. I am not taking any anti-arrythmics right now so I can have a “clean” event monitor. I had Shingles 1 1/2 years ago and unfortunately the pain has never gone away. I’ve been told I have the Postherpetic Neuralgia and may suffer with this for the rest of my life. I just went to see a pain management doctor for the first time for help with the nerve pain and he recommended tegretol, elavil, norco as needed and did an epidural thoracic injection. Is it safe for me to take the elavil and tegretol with my arrythmia history? I am a 34 year old female (in an 80 year old body!). Actual medical advice would be much appreciated as I’ve reached my mental limit with the nerve pain and need to get it under control/managed since it could be with me for a long time. Other meds I’m currently taking:

    Wellbutrin 150mg 1/day
    diazepam 10mg as needed for anxiety/panic attacks
    Vit D 50,000 1/week for 12 weeks
    Compounded hormones (prior full hysterectomy)

    Daily Supplements: Magnesium, Probiotics, 2 Tablespoons of Raw Apple Cider Vinegar

    I also am worried about feeling “hazy” or “cloudy”, I can’t stand to be on anything that makes me feel like I can’t think properly and clearly. I’m also worried about possible weight gain and just taking so many medications in general. Plus since I’m on an antidepressant is it advisable to take another one?

    Thanks for reading and in advance for the help and advice!

    • ANSWER:
      I been trying for a couple hours now to try and get all the interaction info to you. It’s just too big for Yahoo. There’s lots of interactions, most trivial or common sense like no alcohol, but there’s a couple whoppers. Check out this website and put your meds in to the interaction database www.drugdigest.org You should come up with 10.

      I also couldn’t get all the side effect info to you but those can be found in prescriber information sheets or set up for the consumer at sites like www.drugs.com . There’s a bunch of warnings for cardiac issues from Elavil. I’d contact your heart doc and ask about it and all the other drugs. I really think the pain doc screwed up and didn’t even bother looking at your history. If he even bothered with one. It doesn’t sound like he impressed you much either in person. You may want to move on before you have problems and are blackballed from the pain specialists in your area.

      If you’re interested in more info or discussion, I invite you to drop in to the usenet chronic pain support group. You can get there through google groups and it’s alt.support.chronic-pain. That is a dash between chronic and pain. Mention my name, you’ll get a good seat Good luck.

16. QUESTION:
    Waking up with pin-head sized brown spots on my sheets. Why?
    No one’s been able to give me any answers.
    Just to make this clear, it is not my period, I’ve been through puberty long ago and these spots range in size slightly, generally pin-head sized.
    I was rushed to the ER about a month ago for a convulsion that I had and low and behold they ended up on the crisp, clean hospital sheets as well.
    This problem is really bothering me.
    I was diagnosed with shingles last October and I’m thinking it may be caused by those, I’m also wondering if they’re potentially caused by my body not being able to properly release the toxins?
    My doctors really have been baffled or just try to pass it off as “stress related” as they’ve passed off many of my medical issues.
    I know there’s something not right in my body, it is mine and I think I would know.
    Any suggestions as to what it would be or information would be great.

    • ANSWER:
      could be bedbugs. they leave brown spots on your sheets, and they could get into your clothing and be transported to the hospital when you went…

17. QUESTION:
    attic heat?
    I have a house that is shaped like a “T” with the top of the T facing the breeze. This blocks the breeze from the remainder of the house (the trunk of the T). The house has a comp roof. When I bought the house there was no attic ventilation except some small eve vents. It gets very hot up there and the trunk of the T part of the house gets very hot. So, I put in two gable vents. I didn’t put in a third one because the rain hits against that side of the house. This did not help. So, I put in a solar gable vent fan. This also did not reduce the temperature in the inside part of the house (trunk of the T). So, I put in a radiant barrier on the floor of the attic and this did not help either. I looked into putting on a ridge vent but the information I read said I’d have to then seal up the gable vents. Now I am considering painting the roof with titanium reflective roof paint which will cost ~00. Does anyone have any other ideas, preferrably less expensive?

    • ANSWER:
      Don’t paint the roof. You’ll be adding 00 to shingles that will not last any longer than they would without the paint. Putting lipstick on a pig.
      Take that money, (plus a little more), and have a metal standing seam roof retrofitted over the shingles. Ask the contractor to use “Galvalume”, which is galvanized steel sheet with an aluminum coating, (be sure to specify “domestic” material rather than “imported”, some things are still better when made in the USA), it will stay shiny thereby giving you the reflective quality you are after.
      By leaving the shingles under the metal, you have an added insulative value, plus it’s cheaper, faster and cleaner and environmentally friendlier than tearing them off and hauling to a landfill.
      If you want to go the extra bucks, you can have the contractor install a layer of foil faced foam insulation board under the standing seam.
      (The metal and say 3/4″ foam board, and 1X4 runners for nailers on top of your old shingle roof will still be substantially less weight than another layer of shingles would be.)
      If you do that, you will have to wear a sweater to go in your attic in July. plus, it’s the last roof you will ever buy for that house.

18. QUESTION:
    How can i make an easy fort/cover?
    I’ll be using this for airsoft so i’ll need some protection. Also, i don’t have much of a supply because i don’t want to spend tons of money for a fort that i probably won’t use more than a couple times a month. I have huge woods behind my house so i can probably get as much brand or wood if ind there. I need to make 2 . (Although i do have a small supply of somewhat small wood i found) Got any ideas i can use to make a fort? It doesn’t have to be high tech cool stuff, just a like basic small house/bunker/ whatever you want to call it. I think i covered most of the important stuff, if you need any other information then just say so. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Make a plan or blueprint for the layout of your fort, what you want to build it out of, and whether it will be a permanent structure or something mobile. You must also acquire all tools and materials you need before you can actually start building.

      Take out your plans and make braces (preferably out of 2x4s) to drive into the ground and act as a stabilizer for the fort.

      Make sure your flooring will work so that it is completely flat and not misshapen because of landscaping limitations. To do this, determine where in the flooring supports must be placed to maintain it’s stability. Measure from the corresponding spots on the ground to where the floor will be elevated to at each support. carefully cut your supports and cross brace them with 1×4. Make sure all braces and supports are firmly in the ground, pack dirt around all braces as tightly as possible. Finally, do the jump test to make sure of its stability.

      Make the walls. Most forts will have a short or slanted wall. The latter of the two will require extra work with 2×4 and to be honest, it usually isn’t very safe unless you really know your stuff, so we’ll be working with a normal wall. Make sure you have all windows and doors cut out before you start to construct your walls and erect them using 2×4. Save the pieces of wood you cut out from the walls, you will use it later. Make a frame with 2×4 around the edge of the wall. From the top to bottom, place another 2×4 about every 2-3 feet. Make sure they don’t go across your windows or door. Now, lift the walls so that they are in their permanent position(one at a time) and nail or screw them into the floor at the braces.

      Once all walls are up, attach those extra pieces you cut out of the walls to their corresponding hole with hinges so they open easily. A latch is a nice little feature that prevents enemies from penetrating through the windows.

      Create the roofing. Use a piece of sheet metal and bolt it into the top of each of the walls. Some people actually go the extra step and put shingles on it.

      Paint it to your liking and furnish it as much as needed.

19. QUESTION:
    3M company?
    complete with company profile , owners or share holders’ profile, market analysis, product/ service line of 3M company

    • ANSWER:
      3M Co.
      3-M Center
      St Paul, MN 55144
      United States – Map
      Phone: 651-733-1110
      Fax: 651-737-3061
      Web Site: http://www.3m.com

      Mr. George W. Buckley , 60
      Chairman, Chief Exec. Officer and Pres

      Mr. Patrick D. Campbell , 54
      Chief Financial Officer and Sr. VP

      Mr. Frederick J. Palensky , 57
      Chief Technology Officer and Exec. VP of R&D

      Mr. Moe S. Nozari , 64
      Exec. VP of Consumer and Office Bus.

      Ms. Margaret M. Smyth , 43
      Chief Accounting Officer and VP

      VALUATION MEASURES

      Market Cap (intraday)6: 65.75B
      Enterprise Value (23-Jul-07)3: 67.29B
      Trailing P/E (ttm, intraday): 15.94
      Forward P/E (fye 31-Dec-08) 1: 16.91
      PEG Ratio (5 yr expected): 1.67
      Price/Sales (ttm): 2.79
      Price/Book (mrq): 6.46
      Enterprise Value/Revenue (ttm)3: 2.89
      Enterprise Value/EBITDA (ttm)3: 10.558

      FINANCIAL HIGHLIGHTS

      Fiscal Year
      Fiscal Year Ends: 31-Dec
      Most Recent Quarter (mrq): 31-Mar-07

      Profitability
      Profit Margin (ttm): 18.57%
      Operating Margin (ttm): 21.83%

      Management Effectiveness
      Return on Assets (ttm): 14.90%
      Return on Equity (ttm): 41.06%

      Income Statement
      Revenue (ttm): 23.27B
      Revenue Per Share (ttm): 31.387
      Qtrly Revenue Growth (yoy): 6.10%
      Gross Profit (ttm): 11.21B
      EBITDA (ttm): 6.37B
      Net Income Avl to Common (ttm): 4.32B
      Diluted EPS (ttm): 5.73
      Qtrly Earnings Growth (yoy): 52.20%

      Stock Price History
      Beta: 1.07
      52-Week Change3: 28.69%
      S&P500 52-Week Change3: 16.39%
      52-Week High (16-Jul-07)3: 92.32
      52-Week Low (25-Aug-06)3: 69.62
      50-Day Moving Average3: 87.77
      200-Day Moving Average3: 82.29

      Share Statistics
      Average Volume (3 month)3: 3,551,560
      Average Volume (10 day)3: 3,603,880
      Shares Outstanding6: 720.20M
      Float: 664.82M
      % Held by Insiders4: 0.07%
      % Held by Institutions4: 66.80%
      Shares Short (as of 12-Jun-07)3: 9.95M
      Short Ratio (as of 12-Jun-07)3: 2.9
      Short % of Float (as of 12-Jun-07)3: 1.40%
      Shares Short (prior month)3: 9.52M

      Dividends & Splits
      Forward Annual Dividend Rate5: 1.92
      Forward Annual Dividend Yield5: 2.10%
      Trailing Annual Dividend Rate3: 1.88
      Trailing Annual Dividend Yield3: 2.10%
      5 Year Average Dividend Yield5: 2.00%
      Payout Ratio5: 32%
      Dividend Date3: 12-Jun-07
      Ex-Dividend Date5: 16-May-07
      Last Split Factor (new per old)2: 2:1
      Last Split Date3: 30-Sep-03

      3M Company operates as a diversified technology company. It operates in six segments: Industrial and Transportation; Health Care; Display and Graphics; Consumer and Office; Safety, Security, and Protection Services; and Electro and Communications. Industrial and Transportation segment offers tapes, coated and nonwoven abrasives, adhesives, specialty materials, supply chain execution software solutions, closures for disposable diapers, and components and products that are used in the manufacture, repair, and maintenance of automotive, marine, aircraft, and specialty vehicles. Health Care segment provides medical and surgical supplies, skin health and infection prevention products, drug delivery systems, dental and orthodontic products, health information systems, and microbiology products. Display and Graphics segment offers optical film and lens solutions for electronic displays; touch screens and touch monitors; computer screen filters; reflective sheeting for transportation safety; and commercial graphics systems. Consumer and Office segment provides office supply products; stationery products; construction and home improvement products; home care products; protective material products, including consumer health care products, such as bandages; and visual systems products. Safety, Security, and Protection segment offers personal protection products, safety and security products, energy control products, cleaning and protection products for commercial establishments, and roofing granules for asphalt shingles. Electro and Communications segment offers electronic and interconnect solutions, micro interconnect systems, high-performance fluids, high-temperature and display tapes, telecommunications products, and electrical products. 3M, formerly known as Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company, was founded in 1902. The company is based in St. Paul, Minnesota

20. QUESTION:
    To Kill a Mockingbird quotes?
    I’m mapping Maycomb and I just need to find quotes that describe Miss Maudie’s house, The Ewell’s, Tom Robinson’s house, and the dump. In which parts of the book can I find these?
    Help is much appreciated!!!
    I read the book. I need to find these quotes again and it’s impossible to find online. Why else would I come on Y!A? It’s my last resort after I’ve been searching for a fair amount of time. This is what the homework help section is for, not to be lectured about what you think I haven’t done, when the truth is, you’re lazy, you want points, and you certainly don’t know the answer either.

    • ANSWER:
      The book doesn’t describe Ms Maudie’s house, sorry. :/ Only that she had a large yard and a relatively small house. Her yard had many kinds of flowers, especially azaleas.

      “Maycomb’s Ewells lived behind the town garbage dump in what was once a Negro cabin. The cabin’s plank walls were supplemented with sheets of corrugated iron, its roof shingled with tin cans hammered flat, so only its general shape suggested its original design: square, with four tiny rooms opening onto a shotgun hall, the cabin rested uneasily upon four irregular lumps of limestone. Its windows were merely open spaces in the walls, which in the summertime were covered with greasy strips of cheesecloth to keep out the varmints that feasted on Maycomb’s refuse…….etc etc” – Chp 17 (Just before Mr Ewell’s testimony, there’s a very long description)

      The dump is just behind the Ewell’s residence, you can glean bits of information about it from the description of the Ewells’ place.

      (just note that you don’t have to argue with the other people who answered, if people want to help you, they will.) Hope this helps. )

21. QUESTION:
    is it okay to have half the roof repaired?
    We sustained hail damage to the roof in july 2009 and are just now getting around to submitting an insurance claim. The insurance company says they only pay for 1/2 the roof as hail only damages one part of the roof. Is this reasonable? I don’t think it makes sense to get a new roof on only one side of the roof.
    The roof is at least 22 years old. The roofer who inspected the roof said there was damage on one side, but gave an estimate based on replacing the entire roof. The insurance company is the one that said that if there is only damage on one half, they only pay for one half.

    • ANSWER:
      Yes, it is typical to replace only the damaged roofing. There are other factors that should be looked at to verify that only one half of the roof is damaged.

      Be sure that the hail has only damaged one side of the roof. If you have access to the attic, inspect the roof from the underside. Look at the sheeting, If it is OSB (oriented strand board, the fiber and glue stuff) look to see if the hail dimpled in the sheets. If there is dimpling the structural integrity is gone and the sheeting will need to be replaced as well. If it is plywood, it is less likely that you will have significant damage, and if you do there will be obvious holes from the hail. Next, inspect your shingles (I am assuming they are composition asphalt and gravel type) If they are torn, missing, lifted, curled edges, or missing a significant amount of their gravel they are considered worn out.

      Having one side of the roof replaced is quite suitable, if the other side is truly undamaged. A good 30 year shingle will hold up for 20 years in harsh conditions. I would not compare it to stopping a car. Roofing prevents water damage, an entirely different element.

      The other factors that are destructive to a roof are high temperatures, lots of sunlight and poor ventilation. Install ventilation in the gable ends, the ridge and the overhangs, also an attic fan to keep the temperature down in the attic space. This will prevent shingles from curling up in hot climates. If you are under trees, make sure to prevent moss and algae from building up resulting in gravel loss and compromised shingles.

      EDIT:

      In response to your additional information:
      since your shingles are old, you should have your roof replaced. You can save money by having the roofers not tear off the so called undamaged section. They can shingle over the old roof so long as there is only the one existing layer (some areas allow for up to 3 layers of roofing, but tear-off is quite expensive for a roof with more than one layer).